We visited the Moroccan mountains in April 2017. Djebel Sirwa is the highest of a range of volcanic peaks lying between the High Atlas and Anti-Atlas mountains. It reaches 10,800 ft (3305 metres) and still had snowfields on its northern slopes at the time of our ascent.
Early morning view of Djebel Sirwa from our camp at Azib-n-Iriri, a Berber summer village.
Distant views from the summit across what are sometimes known as the Saffron Mountains.
The uplands in spring are covered with flowering pin-cushion thorns.
Nature’s design in an endless rock garden.
The choppy sea of mountains east of Djebel Sirwa.
The barren volcanic peaks show occasional splashes of white ash.
The high valleys are green with new pasture for mules and donkeys, as well as cattle and, later, sheep and goats. This was the first time animals had been brought to graze here since the snows melted.
The summer village is beginning to receive inhabitants as shepherds make their way up the valley from several surrounding home-base villages.
The arrival of the human inhabitants is welcomed by nature’s carpet of flowers.
A delicate path, created by the footfall of people and animals, weaves a line of least resistance through the village.
The village brimming with nature’s unscripted garden designs.
The houses find space among the rocks. Painted doors and windows are the Berbers’ understated contribution to the village colour scheme.
A spring tide of yellow blossom washes around the houses.
Green cultivation terraces in the valley head where almond trees grow.
Ait Ighmour. A fort-like crop store – called an agherm or agadir – still occupies the highest point of the village, mimicking the natural rocky outcrops. There can be few places on earth where buildings grow so directly out of the rocks from which they are made.
On the terraces they grow fodder, and wheat, and also saffron and irises which are a source of dye used in the carpets they make.
Amaseen. Houses old and new are packed beneath the craggy agherm.
Tachokchte. The village and terraces are drawn tightly around the agherm and decorated mineret of the mosque.
Elaborate nailwork of lozenzes and triangles on a cedar door in Tamalakout.
Berber carpet, made in Tachokchte. A traditional design, dyed with henna, indigo and saffron.