Peru old and new

Land of mountains

South of the main Cordillera Blanca the Cordillera Huayhuash lies like a hidden kingdom cut off by many ravines. The prominent peak is Yerupajá (21,765 ft), the second highest mountain in Peru.

From the Huayhuash, across precipitous valleys, a glimpse of the Cordillera Blanca and altiplano to the north

Since before Inca times the mountains were viewed as realms of the gods, the edge of the inhabited world – sites where sacrifices were made, such as the Inca capacocha human sacrifice.

Death in the mountains. Moche pottery vessel showing human sacrifices on seven peaks. The cactus may represent the San Pedro cactus, thought to have been used for its hallucinogenic properties since at least 1000 BC at Chavín in the Conchucos region of the central Andes.

High peaks of the Huayhuash, with Laguna Siula (back) and Laguna Quesillococha

Full moon over Nevado Jirishanca, with Yerupajá on the left

Nevado Siula Grande where, in 1985, Joe Simpson touched the void.

Flowering dwarf cactus at 16,000 ft, like drops of blood in the snow

Rocks, walls, houses, bushes and mountains – this Andean pastoral farm seems to have grown naturally out of the land.

Herds of alpacas roam the highest pastures. The remote Cordillera Raura is in the background

Wild vicuñas are now protected

High valley settlement and cattle pasture

Jahuacocha valley with pasture picked out in delicate pastel greens

Many locals now make a living as mountain guides and assistants.

Outdoor enthusiasts from all over the world are attracted by the trekking and climbing in the dry season, although the glaciers are in retreat. Abra Cuyoc (16,700 ft).

In common with most people Peruvians are addicted to mobile phones. The high passes are places to catch fleeting phone signals and pause for breath and a chat

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